Skip to main content

We summit Rigi

Arth, Switzerland - H and I summited Mt. Rigi this weekend. Rigi is among the great peaks in this area, known to some as the "Queen of the Mountains." It's visible from Zug and nearby Lucerne. Starting in the early afternoon, Hannah and I slowly made our way to the blustery and snow-covered peak by 300PM. Our ascent was over 1,200 meters, starting from the nearby town of Arth. As you might expect, there was huffing and puffing and even a bit of rumbling as we chugged our way up, but not once did Hannah and I think of turning back. No, we were committed to riding that train straight to the peak!

Rigi is actually something of a landmark in railway history. It was the first mountain cogwheel railway in Europe (though, the title for world's first mountain cogwheel railway goes to the Mt. Washington Cog Railway in New Hampshire). Rigi's cogwheel railway was complete in 1871 and it's still in use today. Unsurprisingly, the railway greatly increased access to the mountain and visitor numbers soared. In the late 19th century, Rigi became Europe's hottest tourist destination. Notables included Mark Twain and King Ludwig II. Surprisingly, Rigi was a tourist destination before the railway opened. There were already two hotels on the mountain with over 130 beds when the railway opened. The first of those hotels opened in 1816, over 50 years before the railway. Before the railway, porters hauled everything up, including Queen Victoria.
Queen Victoria
Her Majesty, the Queen (Victoria)
A world war, a depression, and another world war, and a couple of hotel fires put a bit of a damper on the party and Rigi fell into decline and disrepair for a while.

But I'm glad to report that things have recovered: Rigi now boasts a diverse range of mountain activities, including:
  • Alpine skiing (the fun kind)
  • Cross country skiing (why?)
  • Paragliding
  • Restaurants
  • Spa and mineral baths
    • H was pleased discover that this is not an uncommon feature on Swiss mountain resorts, enabling her to travel to ski mountains with me and spend the day lounging around a spa while I conquer the slopes.  
  • Sledging (sledding)
    • Sledging is a more significant activity on Swiss mountain resorts than it is in the US. In the US, sledging is basically a bunny hill where you take the kids who don't want to ski. Here, you can sledge your way down the whole damn mountain. There were people getting off our train at the peak planning to go down a kilometer or more of snow-covered mountain.
  • Hiking
    • The Swiss take hiking very seriously. They don't just grab a water bottle and start wandering around the woods. No, they get decked out in purpose-specific athletic gear (spandex, microfiber, real boots/hiking shoes), use "trekking poles" (AKA, expensive walking sticks), and haul ass up that mountain.
Image result for rigi kaltbad mineral baths & spa
Mineral Bath and Spa at Rigi Kaltbad
It's nice to know that visitors have returned, because Rigi is perched in a pretty remarkable spot, overlooking both Lucerne and Zug, among other small towns. To the north, the mountain falls away dramatically into Lake Zug and the Swiss plateau. To the south, you can see the jagged peaks of the Alps and Lake Lucerne, which snakes around the western and southern faces of the mountain. 


H and I during our arduous trip to the peak of Rigi

From the peak of Rigi, overlooking Arth, Oberarth (literally, Over Arth), and Goldau



Comments

Popular posts from this blog

The Swiss Advance to the Quarterfinals

Zurich, Switzerland - Monday evening was one of jubilation in Zurich, and indeed, throughout Switzerland: the Schweizer Nati (Swiss National Team) advanced to the quarterfinal in the UEFA Euro 2020 championship (European soccer tournament). As you've probably guessed, this championship was supposed to be held last year, but was obviously delayed due to the pandemic. Despite that, the tournament organizers have persisted in calling it Euro 2020.  This is the first time Switzerland has advanced this far in the tournament. The victory came over a juggernaut, the reviled French. Sports books significantly favored the French in this match (a $100 bet on Switzerland would have paid out $550) and in fact the French were the favorite or among the favorites to win it all.  Indeed, the Swiss were down 3-1 into the later minutes of the game. The crowd gathered around our local bar, Le Calvados, was sullen and quiet. With ten minutes to go, the prominent cranium of Haris Seferovic, showin...

We're Back!

Paris, France - We've returned to Europe for a three-week sojourn in France, Switzerland, and the UK. We're obviously very excited. We arrived in Paris Sunday around 11AM. Our approach to jet lag is akin to tearing the bandaid off quickly: We purposely sleep little if at all on our transatlantic flight (below is a photo of Hannah, trying not to sleep on the flight), consume copious amounts of caffeine after we land, slowly descend into irritability and mild delirium, and then collapse after staying up as late as we can on our first night in Europe. Our body's, overcome by shock from this maltreatment, eagerly accept a full night's sleep, even if it's offered at an hour that's entirely out of keeping with our normal schedule. Works like a charm.  After depositing our things at the hotel, we aimlessly wandered around Paris for a few hours before meeting up with Maggie, an acquaintance of Hannah's from work. Maggie took us to the wine bar Delicatessen where we ...