A Cow Parade and a Pig Race

Urnasch, Switzerland - Hannah and I attended an Alpabzug a week or two ago. This was one of several alpine festivals celebrating the cattle drive from the alpine pastures to the barns in the valley below. 

The Cow Parade

We arrived in Urnasch around 9AM and waded through a small outdoor market outside the train station before positioning ourselves along the main street. Over the course of the morning, we saw four cattle drives come through town. The herdsmen (and approximately 75% were men) were all outfitted in traditional garb. For men, this meant yellow or brown trousers, white shirts, red vests, black hats, and a single golden earring in the left ear. Women's outfits were somewhat more variable in style but were invariably traditional - many women involved in the processions wore what Hannah tells me is called a "dirndl." 

The processionals were typically led by a small herd of goats that were shepherded by a young boy. Then came the cows. Typically, a few cows, adorned with enormous bells and elaborately decorated collars, led the procession. We can only assume these the were the prize cows, because they were decorated this way, but to our untrained eye they looked like every other cow. The prize cows were followed by several herdsmen who were often singing and occasionally giving the cows in front of them a light thwapping with a stick. They were proceeded by a mob of other (presumably less special) cows. Finally, at the tail was a single herdsmen accompanied by a dog that prowled vigilantly back and forth across the street, barking at dawdling cows. Interestingly, the dog seemed to be the most energetic and diligent shepherd of the bunch. 

The Pig Race

Around mid-day we made our way back to the market where we stumbled on a short U-shaped course that had been set up for the pig race. At the far end of the race course, you could place bets on one of five pigs. The odds were not good: a winning pig would only double your money. Nonetheless, I plunked down two francs confidently on "Cheesy". I then went to inspect this fine specimen, who was penned in on the other side of the course with his or her competitors. 

Unfortunately, these racing pigs were not exactly the lean thoroughbreds with overflowing nervous excitement I had hoped for. They seemed rather more like small bored barnyard pigs.

As it turned out, "Cheesy" was a more random selection than I had thought. Cheesy was not a specific pig, but was the pig who happened to be standing nearest to the farmer when he grabbed the "Cheesy" bib out of the bin of piggy racing bibs and looked around for a pig to slap it on. 

At some point prior to the race a trough of slop was brought out on the other end of U-shaped course - essentially right next to the pig pen. The pigs prodigious olfactory gland immediately alerted them that food was nearby and they quickly roused themselves and began squealing at the edge of the pen. The farmer opened the gate and the race commenced! Cheesy lost. :(

The Better Alpabzug

Hannah experienced a whirlwind of emotions throughout our morning at the Alpabzug. She was on the one hand delighted and entertained, while on the other hand she was immensely disappointed that the cows' decorations were relatively modest relative to some of the spectacular floral crowns you might see if you google "alpabzug switzerland." In fact, she was so disappointed that she made a trip later in the week to another Alpabzug. Fortunately, this time she saw the flower crowns she was pining for (see photographs below).